Spätburgunder Trocken "Hölle" Thörle 2022 (750 ml)

99 poena – James Suckling

Thörle je porodični domèn sa sjedištem u Saulheimu, u regiji Rheinhessen. Iako imanje datira još iz 16. vijeka, 2006. godine upravljanje su preuzela mlada i dinamična braća Christoph i Johannes, koji su modernizovali i revitalizovali kako vinariju, tako i vinograde – uključujući prelazak na organsku i biodinamičku proizvodnju. Danas se Weingut Thörle ubraja među najbolje vinarije u Rheinhessenu. Njihovi Spätburgunderi (Pinot Noir) iz čuvenih vinograda Hölle i Probstey su među najbolje ocijenjenim crvenim vinima u cijeloj Njemačkoj.

Vinogradi Hölle nalaze se na nadmorskoj visini od 150 do 220 metara, na južnoj padini dugog dolinskog poteza. Lokacija je konstantno veoma topla, jer okolna brda sprečavaju da se zagrijani vazduh odnese vjetrom. Ova mikroklima, u kombinaciji sa siromašnim zemljištem, postavlja velike zahtjeve pred stare čokote, što rezultira veoma sitnim bobicama.

Berba 2022. bila je izuzetna u Rheinhessenu. Grožđe je brano ručno, u trenutku optimalne ravnoteže između arome, kiselosti i zrelosti. Fermentacija na pokožici odvijala se spontano, tokom otprilike dvije i po sedmice. Dozrijevanje je obavljeno u 40% novih i 60% starih francuskih barika (225 l) tokom otprilike 18 mjeseci, čime je nastao vrlo intenzivan i čist Pinot Noir, uporediv sa velikim burgundijskim vinima — ali po trećini cijene.

Na nosu dominiraju vrlo intenzivne arome divljih bobica i višanja morel, koje su suptilno poduprte finim začinskim notama drveta. Na nepcu se javlja blagi dimni ton, veoma čisto voće i beskrajno duga, slano-mineralna završnica.

99 points - James Suckling

Thörle is a family domaine based in Saulheim in the Rheinhessen. While the estate dates back to the 16th century, in 2006 control was assumed by the young and dynamic brothers Christoph and Johannes, who modernized and reinvigorated both the winery and its vineyards, including switching over to organic and biodynamic production. Today, Weingut Thörle ranks among the best estates in the Rheinhessen. Their Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from the famed Hölle and Probstey vineyards are among the top-scoring red wines in all of Germany.

The Hölle vineyards are located at 150 to 220 meters above sea level on the south-facing slope of a long valley. The location is consistently very warm, as the surrounding hills prevent the heated air from being carried away by the wind. This microclimate and the barren soil place great demands on the old vines, resulting in very small berries.

The 2022 vintage was exceptional in the Rheinhessen.  The harvest was carried out by hand at an optimal balance of aroma, acidity, and ripeness. Fermentation on the skins took place spontaneously for approximately 2.5 weeks. Aging took place in 40% new and 60% older French barriques (225l) for approximately 18 months, resulting in a very intense, pure Pinot Noir that is comparable to the great wines of Burgundy (but a third of the price).

On the nose, very intense aromas of wild berries and morello cherries are subtly underpinned by a fine wood spice. On the palate there is a hint of smokiness, very clear fruit and an endlessly long salty-mineral finish.