Larmandier-Bernier "Rosé de Saignée" Champagne Premier Cru, Extra Brut NV (750 ml)

94 poena - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier se danas smatra jednim od najvažnijih i najuglednijih imena u svijetu šampanjca. I porodica Larmandier i porodica Bernier imaju dugu istoriju u ovoj regiji, koja datira još od Francuske revolucije, ali je šampanjerija Larmandier-Bernier osnovana tek 1971. godine brakom Philippea Larmandiera i Elisabeth Bernier. Danas ovom malom kućom upravljaju Pierre i Sophie Larmandier zajedno sa sinom Arthurom, a posjeduju nešto manje od 18 hektara u nekim od najcjenjenijih sela u regiji Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger i Avize (sve Grand Cru), kao i u vrhunskom Premier Cru selu Vertus.

Porodica je 1999. godine prešla na potpuno biodinamičko vinogradarstvo. Njihovi vinogradi su 90% zasađeni Chardonnay-em, 9% Pinot Noirom i 1% Pinot Grijem. Kako čokoti dostižu gotovo 50 godina starosti, Larmandierovi praktikuju konzervativniji pristup prinosima nego što je to danas uobičajeno u Šampanji. Ne boje se zrelosti, već teže balansu između šećera i kiselina, što smatraju pravim svetim gralom vinogradarstva. Takođe vjeruju da terroir dolazi najviše do izražaja uz minimalan nivo dosiranja, i da se takva odluka ne donosi u podrumu, već zaslužuje u vinogradu. Kao rezultat, šampanjci Larmandier-Bernier nikada ne dobijaju više od četiri grama šećera po litru, što ih sve svrstava u kategoriju Extra Brut.

Sa svega 900 sanduka proizvedenih godišnje, ovaj Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut je cuvée napravljen isključivo od najstarijih čokota Pinot Noira zasađenih u selu Vertus. Grožđe se prvo mulja, a sok ostaje u kontaktu s pokožicom dva do tri dana kako bi se dobila lijepa prirodna boja (za razliku od uobičajenog postupka u Šampanji gdje se bazno bijelo vino naknadno miješa s malo crvenog). Fermentacija se odvija u emajliranim inoks-tankovima, a vino se finišira izuzetno nježnim dosiranjem od samo tri grama po litru.

Ovo je Champagne Rosé namijenjen stolu – s aromama divljih šljiva, slatkih bobica i latica. Na nepcu je srednjeg do punog tijela, s dubokim voćnim karakterom i izraženim stilom koji se odlično slaže sa slanim jelima od mesa.

94 points - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier is now perceived as one of the most important and respected names in Champagne.  Both the Larmandier and Bernier families have had an extensive history in the region, dating back to the French revolution, but it was not until the marriage of Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier in 1971 that Champagne Larmandier-Bernier was established. The small house today is directed by Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, along with their son Arthur, and own just under eighteen hectares in some of the finest villages on the Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize (all Grand Crus), as well as in the fine premier cru village of Vertus.  

The family converted to full biodynamic farming in 1999.  Their holdings are comprised of ninety percent Chardonnay, nine percent Pinot Noir, and one percent Pinot Gris. As their vines near 50 years of age, the Larmandiers practice a more conservative approach to yields than is currently customary in the Champagne region.  They do not fear ripeness, but seek maturity of sugars and acidity in search of balance - the holy grail in grape growing.  They further believe that the terroir is expressed best with very minimal levels of dosage, and that this is not a decision that is made in the cellar, but rather, earned in the vineyard. Consequently, Larmandier-Bernier wines never receive more than four grams per liter of sugar. This puts all of Larmandier-Bernier's Champagnes in the category of Extra Brut.

With only 900 cases made each year, this Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut is a cuvée made solely from the oldest Pinot Noir vines planted in the village of Vertus. The grapes are crushed and the juice macerates on the skins for two or three days to give the wine its lovely color (rather than fermented as a white wine and then blended with a bit of red still wine, as is more common in Champagne). The rosé is fermented in enamel-lined stainless steel tanks and finished with an extremely delicate dosage of three grams per liter. This is a Champagne Rosé meant for the table with aromas of wild plums, sweet berries and petals.  It's medium- to full-bodied with a deep core of fruit and a penetrating style that stands up to savory meat dishes.