Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature "Terre de Vertus" Premier Cru 2017 (750 ml)

95 poena - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier se danas smatra jednim od najvažnijih i najuglednijih imena u svijetu šampanjca. I porodica Larmandier i porodica Bernier imaju dugu istoriju u ovoj regiji, koja datira još od Francuske revolucije, ali je šampanjerija Larmandier-Bernier osnovana tek 1971. godine brakom Philippea Larmandiera i Elisabeth Bernier. Danas ovom malom kućom upravljaju Pierre i Sophie Larmandier zajedno sa sinom Arthurom, a posjeduju nešto manje od 18 hektara u nekim od najcjenjenijih sela u regiji Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger i Avize (sve Grand Cru), kao i u vrhunskom Premier Cru selu Vertus.

Porodica je 1999. godine prešla na potpuno biodinamičko vinogradarstvo. Njihovi vinogradi su 90% zasađeni Chardonnay-em, 9% Pinot Noirom i 1% Pinot Grijem. Kako čokoti dostižu gotovo 50 godina starosti, Larmandierovi praktikuju konzervativniji pristup prinosima nego što je to danas uobičajeno u Šampanji. Ne boje se zrelosti, već teže balansu između šećera i kiselina, što smatraju pravim svetim gralom vinogradarstva. Takođe vjeruju da terroir dolazi najviše do izražaja uz minimalan nivo dosiranja, i da se takva odluka ne donosi u podrumu, već zaslužuje u vinogradu. Kao rezultat, šampanjci Larmandier-Bernier nikada ne dobijaju više od četiri grama šećera po litru, što ih sve svrstava u kategoriju Extra Brut.

Ne samo jedna berba, već i jedan terroir. Ova parcela Chardonnay grožđa vinifikuje se odvojeno još od 1995. godine. Riječ je o položaju nazvanom “Les Barillers”, smještenom na srednjem dijelu padine u Vertusu. Ovaj terroir je vrlo poseban: delikatan, slan i istovremeno veoma složen. Ravnoteža je već prisutna u samom grožđu, tako da nema potrebe za kupažiranjem. Pored toga, ovaj šampanjac je sa 0% doze (bez dodatka šećera), kako bi se u potpunosti sačuvala njegova čistoća.

Ovo je idealan šampanjac za početak obroka. Sjajno se slaže sa ostrigama, a predstavlja i izuzetno profinjen izbor uz tartufe. Nudi arome korice citrusa, svježeg žutog voća iz voćnjaka, brioša, saća i tek pečenog hljeba. Srednjeg do punog tijela, zaokružen i sočan, istovremeno je živahan i precizan, sa dubinom u sredini, izraženim kiselinama i dugom, prodornom završnicom. Može se piti već sada, ali i čuvati narednih 5 do 10 godina.

95 points - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier is now perceived as one of the most important and respected names in Champagne.  Both the Larmandier and Bernier families have had an extensive history in the region, dating back to the French revolution, but it was not until the marriage of Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier in 1971 that Champagne Larmandier-Bernier was established. The small house today is directed by Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, along with their son Arthur, and own just under eighteen hectares in some of the finest villages on the Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize (all Grand Crus), as well as in the fine premier cru village of Vertus.  

The family converted to full biodynamic farming in 1999.  Their holdings are comprised of ninety percent Chardonnay, nine percent Pinot Noir, and one percent Pinot Gris. As their vines near 50 years of age, the Larmandiers practice a more conservative approach to yields than is currently customary in the Champagne region.  They do not fear ripeness, but seek maturity of sugars and acidity in search of balance - the holy grail in grape growing.  They further believe that the terroir is expressed best with very minimal levels of dosage, and that this is not a decision that is made in the cellar, but rather, earned in the vineyard. Consequently, Larmandier-Bernier wines never receive more than four grams per liter of sugar. This puts all of Larmandier-Bernier's Champagnes in the category of Extra Brut.

Not just a single vintage but a single terroir.   This plot of Chardonnay has been vinified separately since 1995.  It’s a parcel named “Les Barillers”, situated mid-slope in Vertus. This terroir is very particular: delicate, saline and, at the same time, very complex. The balance is already present, so there's no need for any blending.  Moreover, this Champagne is 0% dosage (no sugar added) so as to respect, throughout, its purity.

This is an ideal Champagne with which to start a meal.  It is a lovely accompaniment for oysters and a very fine match with truffles.  It offers aromas of citrus zest, crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s bright and chiseled, with excellent depth at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish.  It may be enjoyed now or laid down for 5 to 10 years.