Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de Blanc "Latiitude" Extra Brut NV (750 ml)

93 poena - James Suckling

Larmandier-Bernier se danas smatra jednim od najvažnijih i najuglednijih imena u svijetu šampanjca. I porodica Larmandier i porodica Bernier imaju dugu istoriju u ovoj regiji, koja datira još od Francuske revolucije, ali je šampanjerija Larmandier-Bernier osnovana tek 1971. godine brakom Philippea Larmandiera i Elisabeth Bernier. Danas ovom malom kućom upravljaju Pierre i Sophie Larmandier zajedno sa sinom Arthurom, a posjeduju nešto manje od 18 hektara u nekim od najcjenjenijih sela u regiji Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger i Avize (sve Grand Cru), kao i u vrhunskom Premier Cru selu Vertus.

Porodica je 1999. godine prešla na potpuno biodinamičko vinogradarstvo. Njihovi vinogradi su 90% zasađeni Chardonnay-em, 9% Pinot Noirom i 1% Pinot Grijem. Kako čokoti dostižu gotovo 50 godina starosti, Larmandierovi praktikuju konzervativniji pristup prinosima nego što je to danas uobičajeno u Šampanji. Ne boje se zrelosti, već teže balansu između šećera i kiselina, što smatraju pravim svetim gralom vinogradarstva. Takođe vjeruju da terroir dolazi najviše do izražaja uz minimalan nivo dosiranja, i da se takva odluka ne donosi u podrumu, već zaslužuje u vinogradu. Kao rezultat, šampanjci Larmandier-Bernier nikada ne dobijaju više od četiri grama šećera po litru, što ih sve svrstava u kategoriju Extra Brut.

Ova kupaža je ranije bila poznata pod imenom “Tradition”, ali je naziv “Latitude” odabran kako bi bolje opisao njen zaokružen karakter i bogat, šarmantan stil. Proizvodi se isključivo od grožđa sorte Chardonnay koje potiče iz iste “geografske širine”: sa juga Vertusa. Ovo je velikodušan terroir, a grožđe se bere potpuno zrelo – što čini Latitude cuvée savršenim šampanjcem za slavlje, koji pritom zadržava karakterističnu čistoću šampanjaca ove vinarije.

Ova neberbena kupaža sadrži 40% vina iz “vječne rezerve” koja se njeguje od 2004. godine. U aromatskom profilu očekujte note svježeg koštuničavog voća, citrusnog ulja, svježeg bilja i toplog hljeba, dok je na nepcu srednjeg do punog tijela, svijetla i sočna. Šarmira u svako doba dana (ili noći…), a njen harmoničan i potpuno zaokružen karakter obradovaće svako nepce. Spremna je za uživanje odmah, ali se može čuvati još 2 do 3 godine.

93 points - James Suckling

Larmandier-Bernier is now perceived as one of the most important and respected names in Champagne.  Both the Larmandier and Bernier families have had an extensive history in the region, dating back to the French revolution, but it was not until the marriage of Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier in 1971 that Champagne Larmandier-Bernier was established. The small house today is directed by Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, along with their son Arthur, and own just under eighteen hectares in some of the finest villages on the Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize (all Grand Crus), as well as in the fine premier cru village of Vertus.  

The family converted to full biodynamic farming in 1999.  Their holdings are comprised of ninety percent Chardonnay, nine percent Pinot Noir, and one percent Pinot Gris. As their vines near 50 years of age, the Larmandiers practice a more conservative approach to yields than is currently customary in the Champagne region.  They do not fear ripeness, but seek maturity of sugars and acidity in search of balance - the holy grail in grape growing.  They further believe that the terroir is expressed best with very minimal levels of dosage, and that this is not a decision that is made in the cellar, but rather, earned in the vineyard. Consequently, Larmandier-Bernier wines never receive more than four grams per liter of sugar. This puts all of Larmandier-Bernier's Champagnes in the category of Extra Brut.

In the past, this cuvée was known as “Tradition”, but “Latitude” was chosen to better characterise this very round cuvée, with its rich, charming style. It is made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes which all come from the same “latitude”: the south of Vertus. This is a generous terroir and the grapes are picked fully ripe: the Latitude cuvée is a festive Champagne par excellence, which nonetheless retains the characteristic purity of the estate’s Champagnes.

This non-vintage cuvée contains 40% of wines coming from the estate’s perpetual reserve started in 2004.  Look for aromas of crisp stone fruits, citrus oil, fresh herbs and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy mouthfeel.  Charming at any time of day (or night…), its harmonious and fully round character will delight any palate. Ready to drink now, but you can also keep it for 2 or 3 years.