Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut "Les Chemins d'Avize" Grand Cru 2016 (750 ml)

96 poena - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier se danas smatra jednim od najvažnijih i najuglednijih imena u svijetu šampanjca. I porodica Larmandier i porodica Bernier imaju dugu istoriju u ovoj regiji, koja datira još od Francuske revolucije, ali je šampanjerija Larmandier-Bernier osnovana tek 1971. godine brakom Philippea Larmandiera i Elisabeth Bernier. Danas ovom malom kućom upravljaju Pierre i Sophie Larmandier zajedno sa sinom Arthurom, a posjeduju nešto manje od 18 hektara u nekim od najcjenjenijih sela u regiji Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger i Avize (sve Grand Cru), kao i u vrhunskom Premier Cru selu Vertus.

Porodica je 1999. godine prešla na potpuno biodinamičko vinogradarstvo. Njihovi vinogradi su 90% zasađeni Chardonnay-em, 9% Pinot Noirom i 1% Pinot Grijem. Kako čokoti dostižu gotovo 50 godina starosti, Larmandierovi praktikuju konzervativniji pristup prinosima nego što je to danas uobičajeno u Šampanji. Ne boje se zrelosti, već teže balansu između šećera i kiselina, što smatraju pravim svetim gralom vinogradarstva. Takođe vjeruju da terroir dolazi najviše do izražaja uz minimalan nivo dosiranja, i da se takva odluka ne donosi u podrumu, već zaslužuje u vinogradu. Kao rezultat, šampanjci Larmandier-Bernier nikada ne dobijaju više od četiri grama šećera po litru, što ih sve svrstava u kategoriju Extra Brut.

Les Chemins d'Avize zaokružuje kolekciju šampanjaca iz pojedinačnih vinograda ove vinarije. Ovaj pristup započet je još 1988. godine sa cuvée-om Vieille Vigne du Levant, nastavljen 1995. sa Terre de Vertus i 1999. sa le Rosé de Saignée.

Porodica već dugo zna da terroir Avizea zaslužuje sopstvenu cuvée, a 2009. godine, zahvaljujući nabavci male prese, konačno je postalo moguće proizvesti ovu limitiranu Grand Cru seriju. Grožđe potiče iz dvije sićušne parcele smještene u srcu sela Avize, nazvanih “Chemin de Plivot” i “Chemin de Flavigny.” Upravo iz ovog tla – vrlo siromašnog, sa izdancima krede – 60 godina stare loze crpe delikatne cvjetne karakteristike i jedinstvenu mineralnu gustinu.

Vino se otvara aromama ulja citrusa, verveine, svježeg peciva, mahune vanile i svježeg bilja. Srednjeg do punog tijela, prozračno i kredasto, sa vinskim, prilično koncentrisanim profilom i živahnim kiselinama. U početku djeluje pomalo zbijeno, ali nakon nekoliko minuta u čaši, otvara se s nevjerovatnom gracioznošću. Ovako profinjen šampanjac zaslužuje posebno jelo – poput nježno pečenog jastoga.

96 points - The Wine Advocate

Larmandier-Bernier is now perceived as one of the most important and respected names in Champagne.  Both the Larmandier and Bernier families have had an extensive history in the region, dating back to the French revolution, but it was not until the marriage of Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier in 1971 that Champagne Larmandier-Bernier was established. The small house today is directed by Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, along with their son Arthur, and own just under eighteen hectares in some of the finest villages on the Côte des Blancs: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize (all Grand Crus), as well as in the fine premier cru village of Vertus.  

The family converted to full biodynamic farming in 1999.  Their holdings are comprised of ninety percent Chardonnay, nine percent Pinot Noir, and one percent Pinot Gris. As their vines near 50 years of age, the Larmandiers practice a more conservative approach to yields than is currently customary in the Champagne region.  They do not fear ripeness, but seek maturity of sugars and acidity in search of balance - the holy grail in grape growing.  They further believe that the terroir is expressed best with very minimal levels of dosage, and that this is not a decision that is made in the cellar, but rather, earned in the vineyard. Consequently, Larmandier-Bernier wines never receive more than four grams per liter of sugar. This puts all of Larmandier-Bernier's Champagnes in the category of Extra Brut.

Les Chemins d'Avize completes the estate's range of single vineyard Champagnes. This approach began back in 1988 with Vieille Vigne du Levant, continued in 1995 with Terre de Vertus and in 1999 with le Rosé de Saignée.

The family has known for a long time that the terroir of Avize deserved its own cuvée and in 2009, thanks to the acquisition of a small press, it was finally possible to create this small-batch Grand Cru.  The grapes sourced from two tiny plots situated in the heart of the village of Avize on the parcels named “Chemin de Plivot and “Chemin de Flavigny.”  It is from the soil here – very poor, with the chalk outcropping – that the 60-year-old vines derive delicate floral characteristics and a unique mineral density.

The wine opens with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, fresh pasty, vanilla pod and fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chalky, with a vinous, rather concentrated profile and bright acids, it’s a little compact on the first sip but after a few moments in the glass it opens up with incredible grace.  A Champagne like this calls for a great dish such as delicately roasted lobster.