Ermitage "de l'Orée" Blanc, M. Chapoutier 2010 (750 ml)

100 poena – The Wine Advocate

Vina iz Ermitage apelacije potiču sa jednog strmog granitnog brda koje se uzdiže iznad sjeverne Ronske doline, južno od Liona. Ime potiče iz legende o vitezu Gaspardu de Stérimbergu, koji se 1224. godine, ranjen, vratio iz jedne od krstaških ekspedicija. Kraljica Francuske mu je tada dozvolila da na brdu izgradi malu nastambu za oporavak, gdje je ostatak života proveo kao pustinjak (ermite na francuskom).

Brdo je većinski zasađeno sortom Syrah – koja se smatra njenim duhovnim domom – ali se uzgajaju i male količine bijelih sorti, posebno Marsanne i Roussanne. Iako su danas crvena vina poznatija, bijela vina sa ovog brda su nekada bila jednako slavna, i to s razlogom: imaju ogroman karakter koji uvijek ostavlja snažan utisak. Luj XIII ih je proglasio zvaničnim vinom francuskog dvora nakon svoje posjete u 17. vijeku, a vina su se izvozila i na dvor Romanovih u Carskoj Rusiji.

Ermitage kuće Chapoutier proizvodi se isključivo od sorte Marsanne, sa vinove loze stare preko 60 godina, koja raste na istočnim padinama brda, na drevnim glacijalnim aluvijalnim zemljištima bogatim crvenom glinom. Fermentacija se odvija pretežno u velikim drvenim bačvama zapremine 600 litara i drvenim kacama (85%, od čega je 10% novih), dok se 15% fermentira u inoxu. Vino zatim sazrijeva na talogu gotovo godinu dana, uz povremeno miješanje.

Izuzetna berba iz 2010. godine daje vino intenzivne zlatno-žute boje. Nos je veoma izražen, sa notama karamela, zrelog limuna i cvjetnim tonovima bagrema i gloga. Na nepcu je zaobljeno, puno tijelo i izuzetna složenost, sa slojevima zrelog voća, začina i tostiranih orašastih plodova. Veoma dug završetak, sa svježom završnom notom. Spektakularno već sada, ali može sazrijevati i do 60 godina od berbe.

Savršeno se slaže sa foie gras-om, rakovima, jastogom, ribom čvršće teksture, peradom u sosevima, bijelim mesom, kozjim i plavim sirevima, začinjenim jelima pa čak i karijem. Ali kada imate vino ovakvog kalibra, možda je savršeno uparivanje – rižoto sa crnim tartufom i parmezanom.

100 points - The Wine Advocate

Ermitage wines come from a single steep hill of granite that rises above the northern Rhône valley, just south of the city of Lyon. The name comes from the legend of a knight, Gaspard de Stérimberg, who returned home wounded in 1224 from one of the Crusades and was given permission by the Queen of France to build a small refuge on the hill in which to recover, where he remained living as a hermit (ermite in French) for the rest of his life.

The hill is mostly planted with Syrah - it is considered the varietal's spiritual (if not actual) home - though small amounts of white varietals are planted here too, specifically Marsanne and Roussanne.  Although today the reds are better known, at one time the whites produced here were equally famous, and rightfully so: they have a huge character that never fails to impress.  Louis XIII made it the wine of the French court following a visit here in the 1600s; the Romanovs also imported the wine to Imperial Russia.

Chapoutier's Ermitage comes from 100% Marsanne grapes grown on the eastern side of the hill, from ancient glacial alluvial soils rich in red clay, where the vines are over 60 years old.  Fermentation is mostly in big wooden barrels (600 liters), wooden casks (85%, of which 10% are new) and stainless steel vats (15%).  It is then matured on the lees for just under a year, with some stirring.  

In this exceptional 2010 vintage, the wine is an intense golden yellow colour; the nose is also very intense with notes of toffee, very ripe fruity lemon, and with floral overtones of acacia and hawthorn.  The palate is well-rounded, full bodied and very complex with overtones of ripe fruits, spices and roasted nuts. Very long in the mouth, with a fresh final note.  This is amazing now, but can be cellared and enjoyed for up to 60 years from the vintage.

The wine can be well paired with foie gras, crayfish, lobster, meatier fish, poultry in sauces, white meat, goat's cheese, blue cheese, spicy dishes and even curry.  But when you have a wine this special, how about an ideal pairing such as risotto with black truffle and Parmesan?