Hermitage Blanc, E. Guigal 2013 (750 ml)

92+ poena – The Wine Advocate

Vina iz Hermitage apelacije potiču s jednog strmog granitnog brda koje se uzdiže iznad sjeverne Ronske doline, južno od Liona. Naziv potiče iz legende o vitezu Gaspardu de Stérimbergu, koji se 1224. godine, ranjen, vratio iz jednog od Krstaških ratova. Kraljica Francuske mu je tada dozvolila da na brdu izgradi malu nastambu za oporavak, gdje je ostatak života proveo kao pustinjak (ermite na francuskom).

Brdo je uglavnom zasađeno sortom Syrah – smatra se njenim duhovnim (ako ne i stvarnim) domom – iako se ovdje uzgajaju i male količine bijelih sorti, konkretno Marsanne i Roussanne. Iako su danas crvena vina sa ovog brda poznatija, nekada su bijela Hermitage vina bila podjednako slavna, i to s pravom: posjeduju snažan karakter koji nikada ne ostavlja ravnodušnim. Luj XIII ih je proglasio zvaničnim vinom francuskog dvora nakon posjete ovom regionu u 17. vijeku, a vina su se izvozila i na dvor Romanovih u Carskoj Rusiji.

Hermitage Blanc kuće Guigal je kupaža od 95% Marsanne i 5% Roussanne, sa čokota starih između 30 i 90 godina. Prinosi su niski, grožđe se bere ručno, a nakon fermentacije vino dugo odležava u baricima od francuskog hrasta koji su prethodno već korišćeni.

Berba 2013. nudi bogate i vibrantne cvjetne arome, posebno bagrema, uz dodatke tostiranog badema, lješnika i duboke note dunje. Na nepcu je vino bogato i suvo, ali ne preteško. Kremaste note su izražene, a iako vino ima karakteristično nisku kiselinu, oblik mu daje i kontrast pruža dodir plemenite gorčine. Sve je ovdje savršeno uravnoteženo – nije vino koje osvježava, ali je izuzetno složeno i ukusno, sa blagim slanim završetkom.

Jedna od ključnih karakteristika bijelog Hermitagea jeste njegova sposobnost da se razvija u podrumu i preko dvadeset godina. U svim fazama zrelosti odlično se slaže sa hranom – od bogatih jela do blago začinjenih, uključujući i jela sa bijelim lukom (koji je inače težak za sparivanje). Takođe se divno kombinuje uz foie gras.

92+ points - The Wine Advocate

Hermitage wines come from a single steep hill of granite that rises above the northern Rhône valley, just south of the city of Lyon.  The name comes from the legend of a knight, Gaspard de Stérimberg, who returned home wounded in 1224 from one of the Crusades and was given permission by the Queen of France to build a small refuge on the hill in which to recover, where he remained living as a hermit (ermite in French) for the rest of his life.

The hill is mostly planted with Syrah - it is considered the varietal's spiritual (if not actual) home - though small amounts of white varietals are planted here too, specifically Marsanne and Roussanne.  Although today the reds are better known, at one time the whites produced here were equally famous, and rightfully so:  they have a huge character that never fails to impress.  Louis XIII made it the wine of the French court following a visit here in the 1600s; the Romanovs also imported the wine to Imperial Russia. 

Giugal's Hermitage Blanc is a blend of 95% Marsanne with 5% Roussanne, from vines between 30 and 90 years of age.  The yields are small, the grapes are hand-picked, and following vilification they are long-aged in second-pass French oak barrels.  

This 2013 vintage offers rich and vibrant floral and acacia notes complemented by toasted almond, hazelnut, and deep quince aromas.  The palate is rich and dry but not overly full. Creamy notes are quite marked and, although the acidity is characteristically low, it's given shape and contrast by a touch of noble bitterness.  Everything is fully in balance here, and while it's not the most refreshing style of wine, it is complex and delicious, with a little saline hint on the finish.  One important characteristic of white Hermitage is that it can develop in the cellar for over two decades, and in all stages of maturity it pairs gloriously well with food.  Try this with rich or lightly spicy dishes, including dishes that contain garlic (which is otherwise a tricky pairing).  It could also be a lovely complement to foie gras.