Grüner Veltliner "Ried Loibenberg" F.X. Pichler 2021 (1500 ml)

96 bod. - The Wine Advocate

Smješteni u najprestižnijem vinskom regionu Austrije – Wachau – F.X. Pichler su jedan od najuglednijih svjetskih proizvođača Rieslinga i Grüner Veltlinera. Njihova vina su zaista monumentalna suva bijela vina. Franz Xaver (čuveni F.X.) naslijedio je imanje 1971. godine i imao je ključnu ulogu u usponu kako porodične vinarije, tako i čitavog regiona Wachau. Danas vino proizvodi njegov sin Lukas, predstavnik pete generacije, dok je F.X. i dalje aktivno prisutan u vinogradima.

Loibenberg je jedan od najstrmijih i najsurovijih terasa-vinograda u području Loiben, ujedno i jedan od najvećih neprekidnih vinogradarskih lokaliteta u regiji Wachau. Gotovo u potpunosti okrenut prema jugu, ovaj položaj uživa obilje sunca i topline. Tokom dana, sunce zagrijava suhozidne terase, a akumulirana toplota se noću postepeno oslobađa nazad u vinograd, što pogoduje sazrijevanju grožđa.

Tlo se oslanja na visokokvalitetni Gföhler gnajs, metamorfnu stijenu nastalu od granitskih protolita, bogatu kamenjem i pijeskom, što omogućava odličnu drenažu i potiče duboko ukorjenjivanje čokota. Ova tla se brzo zagrijavaju u proljeće, čime se obezbjeđuje ranije kretanje pupoljaka.

Loibenberg je poznat po vinima koja su bogata, snažna, ali i elegantna. Grüner Veltliner s ovog položaja se otkriva kao vino punog tijela, sa sočnim i dugotrajnim završetkom, uz mineralne, dimne i duhanske nijanse.

U mladosti je pristupačan i živahan, ali sa godinama u podrumu postaje sve složeniji i nagrađuje strpljenje. Poslije mnogo godina, pa čak i decenija odležavanja, rezultati su izuzetni – vino koje nosi pečat svog terroira u svakom gutljaju.

96 Points - The Wine Advocate

Based in Austria’s most prestigious region, the Wachau, F.X. Pichler are one of the world’s foremost producers of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. They are truly monumental dry white wines. Franz Xaver (the eponymous F.X.) inherited the estate in 1971, and was instrumental in the rise to prominence of both his family’s winery and the Wachau. His son Lucas (the fifth generation) now makes the wine, but F.X. is still an active presence in the vineyards.

The Loibenberg is one of the steepest and most barren terraced vineyards in Loiben. This site is also one of the largest continuous individual vineyard sites in the Wachau, almost entirely south-facing, sun-blessed and warm. During the day the sun warms up the dry-stone terraces, and this retained heat is gradually released during the evening hours back into the vineyards.

The high-grade bedrock soil is geologically dominated by Gföhler gneiss, a transformation rock that consists of acidic, granite-like protoliths. The sandy-stony soils naturally provide ample water drainage, thus encouraging root growth. The soil also warms up rapidly during springtime and ensures early budding.

Loibenberg is known for its rich, bold and elegant wines. The Grüner Veltliner reveals itself with a full body, juicy and lingering aftertaste, over nuances of mineral-like, smoky, and tobacco-like characters.  This wine is usually approachable and animated in its youth and will continue to evolve exceptionally with cellar aging. The results are rewarding after many years or even decades of bottle aging.