Cervaro, Castello della Sala (Antinori) 2009 (750 ml)

94 bod. - James Suckling

Jedno od velikih i najdugovječnijih italijanskih bijelih vina, Cervaro je kupaža 90% Chardonnay-a i 10% Grechetta. Primarna i malolaktička fermentacija Chardonnay-a odvijaju se u hrastovim bačvama tokom otprilike tri mjeseca, nakon čega se vino prebacuje u inox tankove gdje se kupažira sa Grechettom (koji se vinifikuje isključivo u inoxu). Rezultat je bogato, kompleksno i strukturirano vino.

Vino, duboko zlatne boje zahvaljujući svojoj naprednoj zrelosti, izražava čitav spektar intenzivnih aroma koje se kreću od zrelog citrusnog voća do pečenih krušaka i smokava, uz cvjetove bagrema, koji se stapaju sa notama vanile i dodatno pojačavaju kompleksnost. Ukus je bogat i dobro strukturiran, vrlo mineralan, sa slatkastim notama putera od lješnika.

Zahvaljujući hladnom i vlažnom proljeću 2009. godine, praćenom toplim i suvim avgustom, kiselinski profil ove berbe vjerovatno joj je omogućio bolje starenje od mlađih berbi iz 2010. i 2011. godine. Ipak, ovo vino bi sada trebalo konzumirati, ili u najboljem slučaju pažljivo čuvati još nekoliko godina.

94 points - James Suckling

One of the great and most age-worthy Italian white wines, Cervaro is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto.  Both the primary and malolactic fermentation of the Chardonnay take place in oak barrels over the course of about 3 months, after which it is transferred to stainless steel to be blended with the Grechetto (which sees only stainless steel).  The result is a wine that is rich, complex and structured.

The wine, a deep gold colour thanks to its advanced maturity, expresses a full range of intense aromas which range from ripe citrus fruit to baked pears and figs along with acacia flowers, which fuse with hints of vanilla to increase the overall complexity. Its flavours are ample and well structured, very mineral and with sweet notes of hazelnut butter.  Thanks to the cool and wet spring of 2009, followed by a hot and dry August, the acidic profile of this vintage has perhaps allowed it to age better than its younger siblings from 2010 and 2011.  Nonetheless, this should be consumed now, or carefully cellared for a few more years at best.